{"id":5267,"date":"2023-02-21T12:56:19","date_gmt":"2023-02-21T12:56:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/salutdobrogea.ro\/?p=5267"},"modified":"2023-02-21T13:02:21","modified_gmt":"2023-02-21T13:02:21","slug":"enisala-cetatea-din-inima-mea","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/salutdobrogea.ro\/index.php\/2023\/02\/21\/enisala-cetatea-din-inima-mea\/","title":{"rendered":"Enisala, cetatea din inima mea"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Poate c\u0103 n-a\u0219 fi ajuns niciodat\u0103 la cetatea Enisala, dac\u0103 nu m\u0103 r\u0103t\u0103ceam \u00een drum spre Babadag. Dar, \u00een via\u021b\u0103, nimic nu e \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103tor. A\u0219a cred eu!<\/p>

Aveam de scris un reportaj despre pescari, \u0219i ne-a prins o furtun\u0103 teribil\u0103. Am oprit ma\u0219ina \u0219i am a\u0219teptat s\u0103 treac\u0103 urgia, care p\u0103rea c\u0103 smulge cu din\u021bii copacii, \u0219i-i scuip\u0103 departe. Ploua cu furie, \u0219i nu mai \u0219tiam unde e drumul. Cerul p\u0103rea c\u0103 se r\u0103sturnase pe p\u0103m\u00e2nt.<\/p>

C\u00e2nd s-a mai domolit nebunia, am z\u0103rit pe drum o b\u0103tr\u00e2n\u0103. Ce s\u0103 caute? Sigur\u0103? Unde merge?<\/p>

Mic\u0103, sl\u0103bu\u021b\u0103, dar foarte sprin\u021bar\u0103. C\u0103ra ceva \u00eentr-un sac de rafie. Era ud\u0103-flea\u0219c\u0103, o prinsese ploaia \u0219i tremura ca varga, de frig.<\/p>

\u201eUnde mergi, m\u0103tu\u0219ico?\u201d<\/p>

Ea m-a privit cu ni\u0219te ochi, ca gr\u00e2ul \u00een luna iunie, nici verzi, nici galbeni, dar vii ca fl\u0103c\u0103rile. \u00cenc\u0103lzeau.<\/p>

\u201eNu cump\u0103ra\u021bi pie\u0219ti?\u201d, mi-a r\u0103spuns, \u0219i-n clipa aia, mi-a venit s\u0103 r\u00e2d, cu g\u00e2ndul la Ilie Moromete.<\/p>

I-am zis c\u0103 a\u0219 vrea, dar am treab\u0103 \u0219i, p\u00e2n\u0103 ajung acas\u0103, se-mput.<\/p>

\u201eM\u0103 lua\u021bi p\u00e2n\u0103 la Enisala?\u201d<\/p>

S-a urcat \u00een ma\u0219in\u0103, cu pe\u0219tii ei, care zv\u00e2cneau \u00een sac, ca ni\u0219te inimi turbate. C\u00e2nd am trecut pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 cetate, ploaia fugise \u00een cer. Am cobor\u00e2t cu to\u021bii.<\/p>

\u201eFrumoas\u0103 cetate!\u201d, am zis, \u00een timp ce f\u0103ceam poze.<\/p>

\u201dDac\u0103-mi dai trei \u021b\u00e2g\u0103ri, \u00ee\u021bi spui o poveste!\u201d.<\/p>

I-am dat o jum\u0103tate de pachet. \u0218i-a aprins una, a tras-o ad\u00e2nc, \u00een toat\u0103 fiin\u021ba ei, apoi s-a pornit, ca \u00eenv\u00e2rtit\u0103 cu o chei\u021b\u0103 secret\u0103. Soarele \u00eentinsese m\u00e2inile spre noi \u0219i ardea ca o plit\u0103 de lumin\u0103.<\/p>

\u201eMie \u00eemi zice Stefka. Am 86 d\u0103 ani, b\u0103tu\u021bi p\u0103 muchie, da-s zv\u00e2rlug\u0103, muncesc, nu m\u0103 dau p\u0103 femeili d\u0103 45, grase, ur\u00e2te \u0219i \u00een\u021bepenite d\u0103 lene. Pie\u0219tii ie prin\u0219i d\u0103 mine. La perdea. Ies la drum \u0219i v\u00e2nd la \u0219oferi. Am omu` paralizat. Nu mai poate nimic. Doar m\u0103 strig\u0103: Stefka, Stefka\u2026\u201d<\/p>

Mi-am aprins \u0219i eu o \u021bigar\u0103. Mi-am dezlegat sufletul, i-am tras un \u0219ut \u00een spate, \u0219i l-am l\u0103sat liber, s\u0103 zburde la poalele cet\u0103\u021bii care, \u00een apus, sem\u0103na cu Stefka mea.<\/p>

Fa\u021ba b\u0103tr\u00e2nei vorbea mai mult dec\u00e2t gura ei, dec\u00e2t vocea. C\u00e2nd tr\u0103gea din \u021bigar\u0103, o f\u0103cea p\u0103tima\u0219, de parc\u0103 ar fi fost ultima.<\/p>

Cic\u0103 un str\u0103mo\u0219 de-al ei, un soldat care a locuit la Enisala, s-ar fi \u00eendr\u0103gostit, ca un nebun, de-o feti\u0219oar\u0103 de prin partea locului. T\u00e2n\u0103ra mergea cu caprele, la p\u0103scut, \u0219i se \u00eent\u00e2lneau seara, c\u00e2nd soarele c\u0103dea \u00eentre dealuri.<\/p>

Se iubeau pe ascuns, pentru c\u0103 el nu avea voie s\u0103 ias\u0103 din cetate, iar ea era promis\u0103 unui bulgar din Silistra. Ve\u0219nicul subiect!<\/p>

\u201eS\u0103 iubeaaa, ai de mine, ce s\u0103 mai iubea! Soldatu` ierea frumoooos! Inger. Avia ochii ca ai mei. Verzi. Str\u0103mo\u0219u-meu.<\/p>

Da` \u0219i fata! Z\u00e2n\u0103! Cu pchieli\u021ba obrazului alb\u0103-alb\u0103, \u0219i ochii mari, d\u0103 c\u0103preoar\u0103. \u201d<\/p>

\u00centr-o sear\u0103, ghinion! I-a surprins comandantul. Pe soldat l-a \u00eempu\u0219cat pe loc, iar fata a reu\u0219it s\u0103 fug\u0103.<\/p>

Din clipa aceea, ea n-a mai scos o vorb\u0103, c\u00e2t a mai tr\u0103it. A fost o umbr\u0103 cu lacrimi.<\/p>

Ai ei au m\u0103ritat-o cu bulgarul, \u0219i, ciud\u0103\u021benia-ciud\u0103\u021beniilor, to\u021bi copiii pe care i-a n\u0103scut au avut ochii soldatului. Nimeni n-a \u0219tiut de ce, nimeni nu a putut s\u0103 explice cum.<\/p>

P\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i popa a \u00eencremenit. A\u0219a ceva nu se mai pomenise! Bulgarul era brunet, cu ochii ca smoala. Tuciuriu. Cap mare, frunte de dou\u0103 de\u0219te. \u0218i niciun neam de-al lui (sau de-al ei) nu avea ochii deschi\u0219i la culoare.<\/p>

A b\u0103tut-o, bulgarul, de-a rupt-o. \u00cen cele din urm\u0103 a \u0219i ucis-o, de t\u00e2n\u0103r\u0103. N-a apucat 30 de ani\u2026<\/p>

Dar copiii lor au tr\u0103it, zice Stefka, p\u00e2n\u0103-n zilele noastre. \u0218i mai to\u021bi au dus cu ei, ca pe un trofeu, culoarea minunat\u0103 a ochilor pe care femeia i-a iubit p\u00e2n\u0103 la moarte.<\/p>

Am m\u00e2ng\u00e2iat-o cu duio\u0219ie pe b\u0103tr\u00e2n\u0103, \u0219i f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 m\u0103 mai g\u00e2ndesc la altceva, am \u00eembr\u0103\u021bi\u0219at-o. A\u0219a mi-a venit.<\/p>

Am b\u0103gat m\u00e2na \u00een buzunar, dup\u0103 ni\u0219te bani. I-am dat c\u00e2t am avut. Nu mai \u0219tiu c\u00e2t.<\/p>

S-a uitat la mine, jar stins, \u0219i jur c\u0103-n clipa aia, din ochii ei m\u0103 privea soldatul frumos din cetatea Enisala\u2026<\/p>

\u201eIo m\u0103 duc. S-a f\u0103cut d\u0103 doi\u0219pe. Doamne-ajut\u0103!\u201d<\/p>

S\u0103 fi visat oare?<\/p>

…<\/p>

Cetatea Enisala, situat\u0103 \u00een apropierea satului cu acela\u0219i nume, a fost construit\u0103 de puterea imperial\u0103 bizantin\u0103 \u015fi de cea comercial\u0103 genovez\u0103 la sf\u00e2r\u015fitul secolului al XIII-lea \u015fi la \u00eenceputul secolului al XIV-lea, dup\u0103 care a fost inclus\u0103 \u00een sistemul defensiv al \u0162\u0103rii Rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti.<\/p>

Dup\u0103 mai mul\u021bi ani a fost transformat\u0103 \u00een garnizoan\u0103 a Imperiului Otoman. Este singura cetate medieval\u0103 care a r\u0103mas \u00een picioare \u00een aceast\u0103 zon\u0103 din \u0163ar\u0103. Doar \u00een Moldova mai exist\u0103 c\u00e2teva. De aici, genovezii urm\u0103reau navele de comer\u0163, \u00een perioada \u00een care controlau traficul pe ap\u0103.<\/p>

Pe vremea aceea, zona ar\u0103ta cu totul altfel. Enisala era o fort\u0103rea\u021b\u0103 \u0219i un ora\u0219-port amplasat la malul M\u0103rii Negre, pentru c\u0103, atunci, aici exista un golf al Pontului Euxin, care nu fusese \u00eenc\u0103 blocat de nisip \u0219i p\u0103m\u00e2nt.<\/p>

\u201eDenumirea cet\u0103\u0163ii provine de la turcescul \u201cyeni\u201d (nou), respectiv regionalismul dobrogean \u201esale\u201d (a\u015fezare, sat), adica \u201ea\u015fezare nou\u0103\u201c. Din c\u00e2te spun cercet\u0103torii, turcii ar fi preluat denumirea de la localitatea de l\u00e2nga cetate, c\u0103reia i se spunea Vicus Novus (Satul Nou), apoi Novoe Selo.\u201d (wikipedia)<\/p>

A fost abandonat\u0103 \u0219i de c\u0103tre turci, iar \u00een urm\u0103toarele secole, cetatea a ajuns o ruin\u0103.<\/p>

Par\u0163ial reconstruit\u0103, a devenit un obiectiv turistic major al Dobrogei de Nord.<\/p>

Azi, cetatea Enisala domin\u0103 ca o regin\u0103 \u00eemprejurimile \u0219i cerul. E p\u0103zit\u0103 cu str\u0103\u0219nicie de lacurile Razelm \u0219i Babadag \u0219i \u00eembr\u0103\u021bi\u0219at\u0103 de c\u00e2mpii bogate, pline cu maci prim\u0103vara, \u0219i de gr\u00e2u vara sau toamna.<\/p>

Dana Fodor Mateescu<\/strong><\/p>

Foto: DFM.<\/strong><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\"Enisala<\/figure><\/div>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Poate c\u0103 n-a\u0219 fi ajuns niciodat\u0103 la cetatea Enisala, dac\u0103 nu m\u0103 r\u0103t\u0103ceam \u00een drum spre Babadag. Dar, \u00een via\u021b\u0103, nimic nu e \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103tor. A\u0219a<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5275,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[19],"tags":[485,694,253,483],"class_list":["post-5267","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-laplimbare","tag-cetate","tag-dana-fodor-mateescu","tag-dobrogea","tag-enisala"],"yoast_head":"\nEnisala, cetatea din inima mea - SALUT DOBROGEA!<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Enisala a fost transformat\u0103 \u00een garnizoan\u0103 a Imperiului Otoman \u0219i este singura cetate medieval\u0103 care a r\u0103mas \u00een picioare \u00een Dobrogea.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/salutdobrogea.ro\/index.php\/2023\/02\/21\/enisala-cetatea-din-inima-mea\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Enisala, cetatea din inima mea - 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